The smoke reaches you before anything else.
You step off Telok Ayer Street, push open the door, and there it is: that low, savoury haze of charcoal and rendering fat, the smell of chicken meeting fire the way it’s meant to. Somewhere behind it, the soft rhythm of skewers turning over the grill. I hadn’t ordered a thing yet, and already I knew what kind of night this would be. Slow. Warm. Built one stick at a time.
Yakitori Gosso is a yakitori specialty restaurant that prides itself on delivering an honest, focused experience. Understanding that before you walk in is the difference between a wonderful evening and a slightly puzzled one.
The Room and Location at Boat Quay
Telok Ayer at dusk carries a particular energy. The CBD exhaling, office crowds loosening their collars, the shophouses glowing amber as the light drops. Though Yakitori Gosso has moved from its former spot at 64 Boat Quay, Singapore 049852, along the Singapore River, it still carries the essence of its roots in the Boat Quay area. Gosso sits in that flow, small and unassuming, the kind of place you’d walk past if the smoke didn’t pull you in.
For a wider sense of what surrounds it, our guide to Telok Ayer Japanese food follows the neighbourhood from focused yakitori counters like Gosso to broader izakaya and after-work dining options.
Inside, the room is cosy and intimate without tipping into cramped. The lighting is warm and low, more dining bar than restaurant, the sort of glow that softens faces and makes conversation feel closer. It hums conversational early, livelier as dinner fills in, but never so loud that you have to raise your voice across the table.
This is a place for pairs and small groups. After-work drinks, a casual date, two friends catching up over sake and a steady parade of skewers. If you want the best seat in the house, ask for the corner table. It’s quieter, a little tucked away, and it gives you a clear view of the chef expertly grilling each stick over authentic binchotan charcoal. Big groups without a booking will struggle. The room simply isn’t built for it.
Yakitori Gosso: The Food, One Stick at a Time
Here’s how you do dining Gosso: order in rounds, drink slowly, and let the skewers arrive at their own pace. This isn’t a place for a single grand plate. It’s about rhythm: chicken thigh, pork belly, chicken minced ball (tsukune), chicken liver, negima (chicken thigh with leek), one after another, each landing hot off the coals.
Chicken Liver and Gosso Dama
Start with the Gosso Dama (S$4.50 per stick). This signature dish features the prized chicken liver, sometimes referred to as white liver for its delicate texture. Wrapped carefully in fat netting, the liver is grilled to perfection, lightly charred on the outside and soft and creamy within.
The taste is deep, mineral-sweet, and tender, a dish that even Japanese customers who usually avoid liver find delicious. It comes with a subtle seasoning and a smoky glaze that enhances the natural flavour without overpowering it. The texture is soft but with a slight bounce, and it is best eaten hot and fresh, ideally within seconds of serving, to enjoy the full richness before carryover cooking dulls the taste.
Chicken Thigh and Negima
Then the Negima, around S$5 per stick, chicken thigh with leek. This classic yakitori dish balances juicy, tender chicken with sweet, slightly charred leek. The sauce is a delicate tare glaze, sweet and salty, that complements the fresh meat without overshadowing it.
The chef’s skill shows in the timing on the grill, ensuring the chicken thigh remains moist and the leek caramelises just right. This dish is a comforting anchor among the more adventurous skewers.
Chicken Minced Ball (Tsukune)
Next is the chicken minced ball, or tsukune, offered in two versions: original and cheese. The meatballs are mixed with a blend of sixteen spices, giving them a complex and savoury flavour profile.
The original is juicy and tender with a glossy tare sauce that clings to each bite, while the cheese version adds an oozy, melted centre that some diners adore. Both are grilled to produce a slightly crisp exterior while keeping the inside moist and soft, a satisfying balance of texture and taste.
Fried Chicken with Tartar Sauce
While Yakitori Gosso is known for its grilled dishes, the fried chicken here is a must-try. Served piping hot with a bubbling warm tartar sauce, this dish offers a delightful contrast of textures: crispy, golden skin giving way to moist, tender meat beneath.
The tartar sauce is creamier and milder than the typical cold version, enhancing the dish without overwhelming the palate. It is a clever change of pace that diners often order alongside their skewers.
Other Skewers and Menu Highlights
The menu also features pork belly wrapped in bacon, grilled chicken wings, and skewers with seaweed and egg toppings. Each stick is seasoned with just the right amount of salt and spices to highlight the fresh meat’s natural flavour.
The chef’s approach is simple yet precise, focusing on ingredient quality and control over the grill. Diners can expect a combination of smoky aroma, crisp skin, and juicy meat with every bite.
Omotenashi Dining Gosso: Service and Atmosphere
Omotenashi dining at Gosso means more than just great food. It’s about genuine hospitality. The waitress and staff offer friendly, attentive service without hovering. Glasses of sake or beer are refilled promptly, and there’s a warmth that makes diners feel welcome, whether they are regular Japanese customers or newcomers discovering the restaurant for the first time.
Small touches, like personalised wet wipes with hand-drawn messages, show the care behind the service. This omotenashi spirit creates a relaxed and approachable atmosphere where friends can enjoy good food and conversation without rush.
Per-Stick Pricing and Dining Experience
Skewers here are priced reasonably, typically around S$4 to S$5 per stick, making it easy to sample a variety of dishes. Expect to spend S$25–45 per person for a satisfying lunch or dinner with drinks.
The menu is intentionally focused, so diners should come ready to eat mostly chicken and related yakitori dishes rather than expecting a broad Japanese restaurant selection.
The best way to enjoy dining Gosso is to take your time: order a few sticks at a time, savour each bite, and let the rhythm of the meal unfold. The pacing is part of the experience. The combination of fresh ingredients, expert grilling, and warm service makes for an honest and memorable yakitori meal.
Before You Go
Yakitori Gosso is located at 147 Telok Ayer Street, Singapore 068606, a short walk from Telok Ayer MRT. While it no longer operates at 64 Boat Quay, Singapore 049852, it retains the intimate charm and riverside spirit associated with Boat Quay’s dining scene.
Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, reservations are recommended for dinner service to ensure a table.
If you want to experience authentic yakitori with the added warmth of omotenashi dining, Gosso is a focused choice. Whether you’re craving the famous Gosso Dama chicken liver, a juicy chicken minced ball, or crispy fried chicken with warm tartar sauce, Yakitori Gosso offers a taste of Japan built around smoke, patience, and hospitality.
